UNESCO WHV Starogradsko polje / Stari Grad Plain 2023: izvještaj / report

Tekst: Filip Šrajer
Photo: Filip Šrajer, Isadora Porto Madeiros Costa

Vrijeme ni ove godine nije iznevjerilo sudionike i organizatora treće po redu radionice gradnje suhozida u Starogradskom polju na Hvaru, održane od 1. do 10.9.2023. Radionica je dio svjetskog programa WHV – Volonteri za svjetsku baštinu, koji na lokalitete upisane nea UNESCO-ovu listu dovodi mlade volontere (18-30 godina) iz cijelog svijeta.

This year, the weather did not disappoint the participants and organizers of the third dry stone walling workshop in the Stari Grad Plain on Hvar, held from September 1st to September 10th, 2023. The workshop is part of the global program WHV – World Heritage Volunteers, which brings young volunteers (aged 18-30) from all over the world to UNESCO-listed sites..

Starogradsko polje je jedini od 10 hrvatskih UNESCO-ovih lokaliteta na kojima se provodi ovaj program. Upisano je na UNESCO-ov Popis svjetske baštine 2008. godine kao kulturni krajolik, a gomile, kako suhozide nazivaju na Hvaru, su u temelju njegovog fenomena, jer ne samo da se kroz njih ocrtava najbolje očuvana starogrčka parcelacija na svijetu, već predstavljaju i zaklon, ogradu i deponij viška kamena u najmanje 2400 godina staroj tradiciji uzgoja mediteranskih kultura na najvećem polju na jadranskim otocima. Kako se i umijeće suhozidne gradnje nalazi na UNESCO-ovom Reprezentativnom popisu nematerijalnih kulturnih dobara , može se reći da je ova radionica vrlo izravno spojila dva kulturna dobra zaštićena na najvišoj razini, i to krajolik, i umijeće koje je taj krajolik stvorilo.

Stari Grad Plain is the only of 10 Croatian UNESCO sites that has been hosting this program. It has been inscribed as a cultural landscape on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2008, and “gomile”, as they call the dry stone walls on Hvar, are in the core of its phenomenon, not only because their layout makes the best preserved Ancient Greek land division in the world, but also because they represent the shelter, boundary and the depot of excess stone material in – at least – 2400 year old tradition of Mediterranean agriculture in Stari Grad Plain, the biggest field on the Adriatic islands. Since the art of dry-stone walling has been on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2018, it can be said that this workshop brought closely together two cultural goods protected on the highest level: a landscape and an art (technique, skill, trade or however you put it) that created that landscape.

Volonteri su ove godine pristigli iz Belgije, Brazila, Grčke, Gruzije, Italije i Njemačke i Hrvatske: Ana, Isadora, Juliana, Mariana, Aikaterini, Shio, Miranda, Maddalena, Nico, Maxime i Marko, 12 ljudi raznih struka, uglavnom studenti baštinskih struka u dobi od 19 do 27 godina, bez ikakvog iskustva u suhozidnoj gradnji. Radionicu je vodio Filip Šrajer iz udruge 4 GRADA DRAGODID, domaćin Vinko Tarbušković, ravnatelj Agencije za upravljanje Starogradskim poljem vrijedno je radio s volonterima cijelo vrijeme radionice, a sličnu volontersko-organizatorsku ulogu imao je i Bruno Diklić, voditelj Odjela za graditeljsku baštinu i krajolik u Ministarstvu kulture i medija. U uvodnim dijelovima radionice pridružili su nam se i Davor Trupković, glavni hrvatski konzervator, i Rut Carek, voditeljica Hrvatskog povjerenstva za UNESCO, a posebna gošća – predavačica bila je slovačka etnologinja Ľubica Voľanská, UNESCO-ov ekspert za nematerijalnu baštinu.

This year, volunteers came from Belgium, Brazil, Georgia, Germany, Greece, Italy and Croatia: Ana, Isadora, Juliana, Mariana, Shio, Miranda, Maxime, Aikaterini, Maddalena, Nico and Marko, 12 people of different background, mostly students of heritage professions from 19 to 27 years old, without any prior experience in dry stone walling. Tutor was Filip Šrajer of 4 grada Dragodid association; Vinko Trbušković, director of Agency for Stari Grad Plain Management, and Bruno Diklić, Head of the Department for Architectural Heritage and Landscape in the Ministry of Culture, were working diligently with the volunteers all the time. In the opening days we were accompanied by Davor Trupković, Croatian Chief Conservator, and Rut Carek, Head of Office / Secretary General of the Croatian Commission for UNESCO, and the special guest – lecturer was Slovak ethnologist Ľubica Voľanská, UNESCO’s intangible cultural heritage expert.

Dani su bili popunjeni najviše suhozidnom gradnjom, ali i berbom grožđa, predavanjima i obilascima kulturne baštine i muzeja otoka Hvara. Bez obzira na dob i profesionalni status, u gradnji su svi pomagali jedni drugima i dijelili muku i radost rada s kamenom. Ukupno je iz temelja rekonstruirano preko 60 m niskog ogradnog suhozida uz glavnu cestu kroz Polje. Suhozid je građen uduplo, visine 50-80 i širine 55-60 cm (s obilježjima potpornog zida, jer je cesta nešto viša od okolnih parcela). U odnosu na prošlu godinu (vidi izvještaj), značajnu razliku činila su i tri prolaza kroz zid, tj. ukupno 6 završetaka zida, koji su daleko teži za izgraditi negoli samo tijelo zida. Ukupnu količinu materijala voditelj je procijenio na 44 t, što znači da je svaki od sudionika preko svojih ruku i leđa u prosjeku prebacio skoro 3,5 tone kamena! Sve u svemu je i kvalitetom i kvantitetom rezultat bio jako dobar za ljude koji dolaze iz gradova i većina ih se prvi put susrela s gradnjim suhozida.

Days were filled mostly with walling, but also grape harvest, lectures, and visiting the Hvar’s cultural heritage sites and museums. Regardless of age and professional status, everyone helped each other and shared the pain and joy of working with stone. Over sixty meters of the boundary wall along the main route through the field was completely rebuilt. It was a 50-80 cm high and 55-60 cm wide double wall (with the elements of retaining wall, since the road is higher than the field). An important difference comparing to the previous year (the report is here) was in constructing the three openings in the wall, i.e. 6 wall heads, which are much more difficult to build than the simple stretch of the wall. Tutor estimated the total weight of embedded material to 44t, what means that every participant slung almost 3,5 t of stone in average. In the end, the result was very good, quantitatively and qualitatively, for the people of urban background with no prior experience in walling.